We have just returned from a wonderful holiday in northern Spain. We were largely cut off from the big cities and the main tourist areas but with the marvels of digital technology one can still follow the world's ills anywhere on the planet - even in remote areas. And as we approached Portsmouth on the ferry on our return from Spain yesterday my phone picked up the news that American Senator Lindsey Graham had "unexpectedly died after a short illness". As I stood watching the great Portsmouth naval dockyards slip by I read of Graham's demise I thought back to last Last Monday when I had sat on a lovely Spanish beach and read that the madman Trump was threatening to "annihilate Iran in 15 minutes" if they didn't comply with his pernicious, mendacious and dysphemistic demands. Later, that same day, I read that Trump's America is planning to extend its military hardware - including nuclear weapons - at the many US bases in the UK. Presumably so he can annihilate, in 15 minutes, Iran or anyone else he dislikes; and I wondered if Lyndsey Graham had put those dreadful words into Trump's mouth and encouraged him in his ramping up of military might.
So, as our ferry docked and we made our way back to our cars deep in the bowels of the ferry I thought back to our little trip last Tuesday; it had a certain terrible resonance. We had gone to a place I have long wished to visit. Our trip was to Gernika (or Guernica as it is frequently referred to). Gernika is a town that was the first site of a modern day war crime when in April 1938, during the Spanish Civil War, Hitler and Mussolini carpet bombed this sleepy Spanish town. They bombed it on Monday April 26th when they knew that the town would be packed with local people all attending the town’s famous Monday market. The rebuilt town now hosts an international museum for peace to commemorate that awful event and to promote world peace and human rights; it is a place to make you step back and think.
But more famous than the museum is the mighty work by artist Pablo Picasso which is simply called "Guernica" - a huge abstract work in black and white that portrays with terrible potency the horror of war and the terrible events in April 1938 at the height of the Spanish Civil War. This great work of art (the original is kept in Madrid) - one of the world's great cultural, national, and ethical artifacts - proves the truth of the saying that "a picture paints a thousand words". Oh, that today's world had an artist of Picasso's calibre and ethical standing to depict the horror and gross immorality of 2026 America, Israel, and Russia; of all those, like Trump, who seek to bring pain and suffering upon innocents.
Guernica was only the start so far as modern war crimes are concerned. In the years since we have had many: Hiroshima, Nagasaki, the My Lai massacre, several other dreadful events in Vietnam all done on the orders of American presidents. But, of course, America does not have a monopoly of war crimes – Russia, Israel and various Balkan nations have all played their part in desecrating and destroying humanity simply because they could in places like Bosnia, Ukraine, Gaza, or Sudan – to name but four. And now we are promised more of the same by Trump in Iran. But we Brits are not guilt free. We might like to think we are all good chaps, a Christian nation of honour, decency and compassion but the reality is different. The 2nd World War was all but over in February 1945, Germany was being invaded on all fronts by Russian, French, American and British troops. But, for reasons never fully or satisfactorily explained, Churchill agreed to the request from Arthur “Bomber” Harris, the chief of the RAF, to obliterate Dresden and its population. Over 4 nights over 1200 heavy bombers dropped over 3900 tons of high explosives and incendiary devices on Dresden. It resulted in a fire storm killing more than 25,000 civilians and laying waste to much of the city. We hypocritical Brits are not untarnished or above immoral action; we are quite capable of war crimes when the feeling takes us.
It seems that mankind, and especially American presidents, do not care how many innocents are "annihilated" at their behest and command. Life is cheap and expendable if you are of that frame of mind and have the power to bring death and destruction on those who you dislike. Mankind hasn’t moved on much since the time of the mighty and terrible Emperors Darius and Xerxes of the ancient world, or of Genghis Khan, Attila the Hun or Ivan the Terrible. I wonder if Hitler, Mussolini, American President Harry Truman or even our own Churchill had used Trump's cheap and callous words, whispered by some unpleasant ancestor of Lindsey Graham: "We're gonna’ annihilate Gernika/Hiroshima/Nagasaki/Dresden in 15 minutes.......!" when planning the destruction of these cities and their inhabitants?
So we had walked silently through the Museum de la Paz (the Peace Museum), looked at the horrifying black and white images of the bombing of Gernika and other war crimes across the world. We watched videos of old people recalling that terrible day in 1938, feeling their rage and sorrow. And at last we stood in front of Picasso's great work while the busy and lovely modern town of Gernika got on with its 2026 life. And 3000 miles away in Washington a mad President planned the annihilation of a nation, a people and a culture and sends more of his weapons of war to be stored and used from British soil. And as I stood in front of Picasso's work the words of ”Blowin’ in the wind”, Bob Dylan's great 1960s plea for compassion, freedom and peace filled my mind:
Our little act of homage done, we left Picasso’s great work and wondered down Gernika’s silent lunchtime streets that had once echoed to the roar of German and Italian bombers and the terrifying sounds and sights of death. We made our way back to the town centre, subdued at what we had seen and where we had been. We enjoyed a lovely and gentle lunch and tried to think of of pleasanter things. Lunch done, a short drive took us to Mundaka a lovely little resort where we sat for a couple of hours enjoying the July sun, the view and the silence; a far cry from the evil ravings of the American president and his squalid supporters, who now are the face what was once, perhaps, a more respected, and certainly a more honourable nation, but is now a place of hateful deceit and violent, immoral deeds.
So, we sat gazing out onto a peaceful beach and a gently rolling sea, our minds still plagued by the news that appeared on our mobile phones of Trump’s plans and pronouncements and of the couple of hours we had spent in Gernika. And the words of another long learned verse came to me, reminding me that humanity’s capacity for evil is an ever present: Osbert Sitwell’s poignant and witheringly cutting “The Next War”. Written in 1919 in the aftermath of the 1st World War, Sitwell, as many others of his generation, knew that another war was inevitable; and like Bob Dylan he pointed a finger at those who promote and profit from war, who raise the call to arms and encourage young men to go to their deaths in the hell of the trenches to put gold in the pockets of weapon makers and power in the hands of politicians. Sitwell knew, as we all know, that men like Hitler, Mussolini, Churchill, Trump, Putin and Netanyahu are only able to do the things that they do because others support, promote, finance and ultimately make real their sadistic and evil ideas; powerful fixers, manipulators, power brokers and wealth seekers like the late Senator Graham who are at the root of evil. Sitwell's words are both painfully true and prophetic - and more relevant today in 2026 than they were when he wrote the over a century ago:
The residents of Gernika, may never have read Thucydides but they learned and suffered its truth and its terrible consequences in April 1938 at the hands of German and Italian bombers, when the bombers of “the strong” did “what they willed” and “the weak” innocents of Gernika “suffered what they must”. Today, the innocents of Gaza, Ukraine and Iran are learning and suffering that same lesson at the hands of Israel, Russia and Trump and Lindsey Graham's America. Mankind - and especially the American people - should be ashamed of their country, their elected leaders and themselves.
















