In Praise of the Langstone Cliff Hotel

A drink on the verandah

As I ate my delicious  'full house' fried breakfast the other morning I read, with a mixture of bemusement, sadness and cynicism,  of the latest  whim of our  'nutty professor'   Michael Gove, HM Secretary of State for Education – that children should read fifty books a year. Now don’t get me wrong, as an avid reader and primary teacher of forty years I’m all in favour of kids reading as much and as often as is humanly possible – it’s just that having heard the mad ramblings of successive Secretaries of State for Education I am cynical in the extreme about the thinking behind such an announcement, the potential  implications for kids and teachers  and, indeed, Gove’s qualifications for making such a proposal. If past experience is anything to go by this  'off the cuff' comment will, in the fullness of time, become part of the curriculum and a required assessment element – all because Gove woke up in the middle of the night and had  a  'good idea' while he went for a pee! But as I ate my breakfast I determined not to rise to the bait – I’ll leave it for another blog (be warned!).

I took this laid back view because I am on holiday – at my favourite hotel.

From our balcony

I’ve visited many places on the world’s surface, followed the tourist trail to some of the world’s great attractions – Venice,  watched the sun rise over the Taj Mahal,  drunk wine watching the sun set at Ayres Rock, stood atop the fated twin towers in New York, been moved watching the nightly 'putting away' of the Sikh holy book at the Golden Temple of Amritsar, dined at Raffles in Singapore, listened to Bach in Leipzig, gazed at the ceiling  of the Sistine Chapel, been overwhelmed by the treasures of the Hermitage and the Tsar's Winter Palace in St. Petersburg  - and the rest – but always we come back to Dawlish in Devon and to the Langstone Cliff Hotel – one of the world’s great hotels! You may not have heard of it, it doesn’t boast 5 stars, doesn’t employ a world famous chef nor does it sport a top hotel name like Radisson or Ritz or Hilton. But it does have a huge following built upon over half a century of providing a welcoming atmosphere, excellent food and service and a lovely environment.  We usually take advantage of the hotel’s hospitality, wonderful food, friendship and   facilities 4 or 5 times a year – each time for a short break of 3, 4 or 5 days. It has become a place for the family to gather twice a year for a get together  'on neutral territory.' It has also become a  'bolt hole' to escape to and relax in knowing that for a few days we will be looked after quietly and without fuss or pretension.   Our grand daughters bore their teachers for weeks before coming by telling them  'we are going to the posh hotel'. We are not alone, many of the hotel’s clientele have been regular guests for 40 years or more – like us, generations of the same families descend for a long weekend or an Easter break or perhaps a main summer holiday.

So, what is special about the Langstone? What makes people return year after year? It’s certainly not the 'poshest' hotel in the world, it’s only 3 star, Dawlish is hardly the centre of the universe, it’s not the cheapest place on the planet.  On the other hand, it does have some very pleasant grounds with a view from the verandah   that would be difficult to surpass. The food is universally  agreed to be exceptional – a real strength – fresh, homely, varied, delicious. The lounge is pleasant and comfortable. Rooms are bright, clean and well maintained. Weekend entertainment in the ballroom is lively and memorable.

The verandah!

But there is something else much more important than all these. It’s a thing that you can’t score on an evaluation sheet. It’s not about value for money, the number of lifts or the promptness of reception – important though these things are. No, it’s the quality of the staff from the very top to the bottom. Geoff Rogers and his family who own the place, the receptionists, the bar staff, the kitchen staff, the waitresses and waiters, the cleaning staff, the maintenance staff – every single one care about  the place and want to give you a pleasant stay. From the minute you walk through the door you feel part of the Langstone family. And you can’t put a star or a price on that. You always feel valued and important to them. No Ritz this with posh 'flunkies' at your elbow – just kind ordinary people doing a good job with diligence, care and a friendly smile. Every single staff member is someone who you would be pleased to call your friend or to have as a next door neighbour.

Of course, very occasionally things go wrong – in an organisation such as this with all the people, staff and guests involved that is inevitable. There might be something that you can 'complain' about – but it is always sorted immediately and always the result of some particular set of circumstances.

A couple of years ago my wife and I visited Leipzig. We had booked into a 3 star hotel that we knew but unfortunately when we arrived the receptionist sadly told us there had been a mistake and they did not have a room. But, she explained, they had booked us into the hotel further down the road and a taxi was waiting to take us. There would be no extra cost even though it was a much 'better' hotel. Indeed, the taxi driver reinforced this – 'much better place, 5 star' he told us as we travelled the few hundred yards to our new resting place. Yes,  it was very swish – glass doors, walk in see through showers, huge beds, a lounge filled with small shiny metal stools not meant to be lounged in, designer meals in tiny portions on odd shaped plates, totally sterile with no atmosphere. But it was  'five star' and clearly what a lot of people enjoyed. Obviously, the facilities that a hotel provides are crucial but at the same time are only a very small part of the story. If you wanted a posh bed for the night it was fine, if you wanted a relaxing stay that would give you fond memories you’d be hard put.

The Langstone is great! You can be an Olympic swimmer, read the Guardian in the lounge and advise the owner, Geoff Rogers, on  how to organise an Easter Egg Hunt!

The quality of hotels, like pubs, beauty contests and indeed kids is  in the eye of the beholder. Parent’s invariably and rightly think their child is the child from heaven – teacher often has different ideas! In  the days of Miss World, we all enjoyed disagreeing with the judge’s final decision. My village has a number of pubs which each night are full – clearly enjoyed by many - but not my cup of tea! And I am sure that many might visit the Langstone and it will not meet their needs – the food not  'designer' enough, the swimming pool a bit cramped, no air-con in the rooms –whatever. But for many it is 'the business' – in the sixty or so years that Geoff Rogers has worked to build up his business he has not only created a successful business but  created a place of warmth, rest, friendship and memories for many thousands of families who have returned year after year.  That is what the Langstone is all about and why people return.

Evening sunset - a beer, a  wonderful
view, a lovely meal to look forward to -  

and yes, Mr Gove, about
fifty books loaded into my Kindle!

And so, back to my fried breakfast – even the misguided ramblings of the Secretary of State for Education  will not be allowed to spoil the best fried breakfast in England (and probably the world). Nor will he intrude on my thoughts as later I sit on the verandah in the evening sunset sipping my pint, enjoying one of the best views in England  watching the sun go down over Lyme Bay, looking forward to choosing my evening dinner from the excellent menu in the lovely restaurant ....... and reading one of those fifty books that I am supposed to read each year!